Dining Out: At O'Brien's, Expect
Seriously Good Food
By TERRA WALTERS, for The Capital
Thanks to Mother Nature and the
"media"-rologists, the evening of our dinner at
O'Brien's was one of those fabulous ones in which
the words November and balmy can be used in the same
sentence.
As our group converged upon the long-established
Main Street restaurant and watering hole, the
discussion was about what we felt like eating for
dinner. One of those decisions was to be made in an
interesting manner.
Here's the story: As we were seated, we noticed a
solitary female seated at a table nearby. She was
enjoying a cocktail and seemed perfectly at ease
dining alone. She wasn't reading a book, she wasn't
chatting on her cell, she wasn't fidgeting and she
didn't seem to be agonizing about where to look or
what to do with her hands.
Kudos to that amazing woman! If she is reading this,
she should know that all of us were in awe of her
and admired her greatly as we shared tales of
getting take-out, ordering room service, sitting at
lunch counters and even skipping dinner to avoid
eating alone in a restaurant.
Just as our own drinks were arriving, we noticed her
entree being served. She was having prime rib.
Bingo, decision made. The question about what to
have for dinner had just been answered.
As we relaxed and enjoyed our drinks, we talked
about how long we've been coming to O'Brien's, and
each member of the group had been coming there since
it was Fran O'Brien's, restaurant venture of the
noted Redskins defensive lineman of the same name.
Even though it has been a local favorite for many
years, not everyone knows the rich history
associated with O'Brien's. The building was built in
1774 and opened as the Rose and Crown. Even though
we were still an English Colony, the seeds for
revolution had been sewn. As the First Continental
Congress met in Philadelphia, this Annapolis tavern
was a meeting place for both Royalists and
Revolutionaries alike. Now, more than two centuries
later, people still enjoy going to this venerable
downtown landmark to be fed, "watered" and
entertained.
Long a favorite for members of our party, the crab
balls ($13.50) were the clear-cut choice for a
shared appetizer. Let it not be forgotten, though,
that the full name of this establishment is
O'Brien's Oyster Bar and Restaurant, so work some
oysters into your meal irrespective of what else you
order.
Oysters on the half shell ($8 for six, $14 for a
dozen) are always a good bet at O'Brien's as are the
Oysters Crisfield ($8.25), in which the oysters are
dressed up with crisp bacon, lump crab and melted
cheddar.
One good way to sample several ways this kitchen
shines when it comes to preparing oysters? The
Oysters 5 Ways ($16) that includes oyster stew,
Oyster Crisfield, Oyster Casino, Oyster Fritters,
and Oyster Nachos. Even though this is billed as an
appetizer for two, it makes a super entree as well.
For some strange reason, the oyster stew isn't
listed in the soups section of the menu - just
Maryland crab, French onion and the ubiquitous cream
of crab.
If you're accustomed to the little heavily breaded
and usually greasy chunks that often pass for crab
balls, you're in for a real treat with these. These
succulent lump crab balls will melt in your mouth;
but be warned that they tend to fall apart when you
eat them, so try them on one of the yummy crackers
that accompany, along with homemade cocktail sauce
and tartar sauce.
No sooner had we finished wolfing down the crab
balls than the entrees arrived.
One member of our party had decided on the Open
Faced Crab MacClusky ($14), a felicitous combination
of Jumbo Lump
Crab Imperial and Swiss cheese, toasted on a
generous slice of Italian bread. With sandwiches and
wraps, diners may choose between chips or fries, but
we'd recommend the fries. After all, you can buy
chips anywhere and these fries are better than
average (available as Boardwalk fries for $4 on the
list of side dishes).
The diner who could usually be counted upon to go
for O'Brien's grilled salmon ($20) went counter to
type and ordered the center cut sirloin ($22) that
was outstanding. Grilled perfectly, it came with a
creditable bordelaise sauce and two choices from the
list of potato and vegetable side dishes (all
entrees include salad from O'Brien's well-stocked
and varied salad bar).
O'Brien's offers dinner specials and the diner who
had already decided on prime rib selected the
evening's special preparation over the more
traditional prime rib cut available on the regular
menu. The Chesapeake prime rib ($27) was a bountiful
serving, topped with more of that divine crab
imperial and accompanied by a baked potato and a
nice vegetable stir-fry. As is always the case when
we go to O'Brien's, we all got two meals for the
price of one as everyone walked out with sizeable
leftovers.
O'Brien's is like many other similar establishments
in that they do a big bar business, have an active
happy hour and have nightly live entertainment.
Unlike many others, they also take food seriously.
The menu is a full-service one and offers several
beef, seafood and pasta entrees in addition to their
raw bar, their burgers, their sandwiches and salads,
and their lighter fare items.
In keeping with their restaurant focus, O'Brien's
has an attractive wine list with some interesting
choices of wines by the glass as well as good prices
on the wines by the bottle. Red wine lovers might
look for the Parker Estates Pinot Noir ($32) and
white wine aficionados might try the Bethel Heights
Pinot Gris for $29.
Some desserts are made in house and some are brought
in. Go for the Oreo Pie ($4.25) which was, by the
way, the choice of the lone lady who had dined at
her leisure and was ready for coffee and dessert.
As we enjoyed the end of our meal, once again
pleased with food and drinks and service, we mused
that O'Brien's just might be around for another 200
years. |